Amalfi in Full

The journey.

The Amalfi Coast is theatre, and the trick is a good seat. We put you above the crowds — a villa hotel on the Ravello ridge, a wooden gozzo to slip the traffic, and a table where the kitchen still cooks for locals.

The coast, from the water Mornings belong to the sea: Positano from below, a swim off Li Galli, a lunch of just-landed fish on Nerano's beach. The road does the work of getting you there; the boat does the work of remembering it.

Ravello, above it all Inland and upward, the register changes — gardens that inspired composers, a concert on a terrace suspended over the gulf, evenings cool enough for a jacket. You come down to the coast; you go up to breathe.

One day is always held open, because the best Amalfi afternoon is the one you didn't plan.