Kerala, on the Backwaters

The journey.

Kerala moves at the speed of a poled canoe, and improves everyone who matches it. This is the soft India — green water, green palms, food bright with coconut and curry leaf.

The backwaters A private kettuvallam houseboat with a crew of three, drifting past village life at its own pace — kingfishers, church bells, canoes ferrying schoolchildren — and mooring where the evening looks best.

The hills and shore Up to Munnar's tea country and a spice garden lunch, then down to a sea-facing heritage home in Fort Kochi, where the Chinese fishing nets perform at sunset.

Ayurveda, optionally, throughout — Kerala wrote the manual.